Passage to Indonesia — Part 4 Enu

Enu wasn’t on the plan.

It wasn’t a waypoint, or a penciled-in stop, or a place we had talked about in our planning. It appeared only after we began looking, not for progress, but for pause.

Passage to Indonesia — Part 3. When the Boat Objects

By the third day of the crossing, our world had contracted, not in distance, we were still covering miles, but in focus. What mattered now was how the boat was moving, how the sea was behaving, and how much attention everything required. Wind and current were no longer aligned, and the motion reflected that disagreement. The bow lifted, hesitated, then dropped, again and again. Not dramatic. Just relentless.

(If you missed part one or two click here.)

A few of the many fishing boats we passed. This time in daylight and they were visible.

Passage to Indonesia — Part 2. The Glow on the Horizon

 If there is one thing that became clear early in this passage, it’s that night changes everything.  (If you missed part 1, click here)

The first evening after leaving Australia gave us our introduction. The western horizon glowed, not like stars or constellations, but like a distant city at sea. A low, steady brightness spread across the darkness, far too expansive to be natural.  Based on the scale of the glow, we assumed it was a Chinese fishing fleet. There were more than fifty boats in that one area alone, with other clusters scattered farther west.

Passage to Indonesia — Part 1 Late Season, Open Water

I began this passage from Australia to Indonesia with more trepidation than usual. That alone should have been a clue.

There were reasons, of course. There always are. We were leaving Australia fully inside cyclone season, which officially runs from November 1 to April 30. By late December, we weren’t at the tail end or even the shoulder, we were squarely in it. Late enough that people paused when we mentioned our plans. Late enough that the weather patterns had shifted from helpful to unfriendly. Winds that had once been behind us were now firmly in our face. Currents, too, would be working against us. On paper, it was not the right time to make this passage.

Australian Wildlife: From Adorable to Mildly Terrifying

One of the great joys of our time in Australia was meeting an entirely new supporting cast of animals. Some were impossibly cute, some were loud and opinionated, and some existed mainly to remind us why Australians read warning signs very carefully. This is a mostly pictorial roundup, with just enough words to prove I was paying attention.

The Cute Stuff (Lulling You Into a False Sense of Security)

The freedom of having a car (at least for a while)

 

Ocean Freedom vs Shore Reality

People talk about the freedom of the open ocean, free to go anywhere, depending on the wind, the waves, the currents and the tides. This is true, we do experience this, but as soon as we go ashore our world shrinks dramatically. Whether we go ashore by dinghy or we are at a dock in a marina, our range suddenly becomes “anything within walking distance,” which, depending on the temperature and how many groceries we need, can be extremely negotiable.

One of the joys of renting a car is getting to search out waterfalls, it gives us great pleasure. 

Townsville City, Willie Wagtails, and Boatyard Blues: Our Unexpected Stop in Australia

Did we plan on being in Australia now? No.

Are we enjoying it? Yes. 

Well, for the most part… 

Right now, Rhapsody is hauled out at Rosshaven Marina in Townsville City —yes, Townsville City , because apparently naming a place “Town” and “Village” wasn't enough—waiting for some repairs. Being at the whim of other people's schedules under the unrelenting tropical sun is… let's just say character-building (and yes, sun hats are essential survival gear ). Yesterday, a breeze finally stirred, and for two glorious minutes, it felt like victory. Then it died again.

Welcome to boat life: patience, repairs, repeat.